kidderlidder
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The way I like to think of it is this: Some breaks work at a particular stage of the tide, right? So..ok, to equate it to the way things work on the coast, try this. The level of freshwater = state of the tide at a regular break The bore = incoming swell. Now if you look at all those big sandbanks in the lower, wider areas, clearly it would be ideal for them to be covered by just the right amount of water BEFORE our swell arivves, so that they can act like a nice little bank a short way offshore, forcing the swell up.... and so on.
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